Kashmir Kani Weavers

Farooq Ahmad Mir, a National awardee, making a Kani weave shawl 

The word kani refers to ‘wooden bobbins’ or ‘small sticks’, and corresponds with the intricate and arithmetic-based weave from Kashmir. Kani weaving requires immense skill and patience as the weavers create intricate patterns using meticulous, coded motifs drawn by master craftsmen.

Traditionally, women were not associated with Kani weaving. However, after the introduction of mechanised looms, both young boys and girls have been employed to weave these products.

Artisans need to be mathematically gifted as Kani weaving follows an arithmetic graph. Traditionally, women were not associated with this craft. However, after the introduction of mechanised looms, both young boys and girls have been employed to weave these products. Since Kani shawls are highly coveted, they have been given a GI status to safeguard not just the weave but the community as well.

While these are some of the main weaver communities of India, this list is by no means exhaustive. Owing to technological advances and growth in literacy, many weavers have either shifted to using power looms or have left the profession entirely. However, the state and central governments have been trying to encourage more and more members of these communities to continue their handloom traditions by creating various avenues for their exposure, including giving them awards for their skills and providing them with GI rights.